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LP to CD Is Easy When You Know How!
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LP To CD & Vinyl To CD -
The Software Tutorial

Drew's Easy How-To Drewtorial on
Turning LPs, Tapes and Cassettes Into CDRs
The Software,
Using MusicMatch As An Example.

Of Course, NOW that the DAK $19.95 Wave & MP3 Recorder & Editor Is INCLUDED FREE with our LP TO CD Systems, you really only Need to Use Musicmatch or other software for recording
if you don't get one of DAK's LP to CD Systems.
Or To Manage Your Tracks & Burn Your CDs
Skip To Find & Manage Your Tracks & Burn CDs Section


How To Make
REGULAR ‘Redbook' CDs, MP3 CDs and MP3 Files.
OK, Since I wrote the LP to CD tutorial, I've had literally hundreds of our fellow DAKonians asking me to add a step by step ‘turnkey' ‘soup-to-nuts' step-by-step tutorial on using a readily available software program to convert Vinyl to CD.
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So, here it is. I've chosen to use MusicMatch software because there's a free download you can get and a $19.99 upgrade that lets you do just about everything including 'Line In' recording for LPs, cassettes and tapes to quickly convert your Vinyl LPs, 45s plus cassettes and virtually any other analog recordings into your choice of digital formats.

IMPORTANT NOTE: For your car, for your office, bedroom or kitchen maybe you don't want to make MP3 files. No problem. With this software, you can create EITHER standard CDs (called Redbook audio), or MP3 files to store on your computer. Then, when you want to make CDRs, you can again choose EITHER MP3 CDs with up to 10 hours of your favorite music, or regular 70 minute standard CDs.

Below I show you how to make each. And, with CDRs costing only between about $0.15 and $0.30 cents, you'll make several copies
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  • LPs To CDs Step-By-Step.
  • LPs To CDs Software Step-By-Step.
  • LPs How to find old LPs on the Internet.

  • If you'd like to have all three of these tutorials on your desktop in one easy one-click eBook for easy reference 24/7, just click the buy button below.
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    of each of your musical masterpieces for use in several places and for permanent backup. Of course I don't need to remind you that you can't sell any music because that would be a copyright infringement. And I'm not here to help you do that.

    But I am here to help all of us save and enjoy our favorite music using today's latest digital automated perfection. And think about this. Now the music on your records and cassettes can be permanently preserved with no loss of quality. Now you can group songs, tracks artists into any playlist in any order you may ever want. All the choices are yours. All you need is a few minutes to permanently preserve all you musical treasures for yourself and your progeny with this easy LP to CD.
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    Oh, and don't worry about space. I recommend using a small PC mixer with the RIAA curve built-in (Have you Checked out my suggested Turntable And PC Mixer with the free cable? Click to Open a new window for the Complete LP To CD Solution.)

    At well under $100 for the PC mixer you can plug it into your computer and then just put the turntable or cassette deck near your computer when you're actually recording. This really works for me.

    So, let's get started.

    SPECIAL NOTE: Although I've used MusicMatch for my example, you can learn more than enough to apply these techniques to ANY software you might ultimately choose to convert LPs To CDs.
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    But, I do recommend that you at least give MusicMatch a try so you get a few good LPs converted to CDRs so you see just how easy it all is to get instant, perfect, programmable, portable access to the treasured music of your past.

    Here's All You Need to convert LPs to CDRs.
    Of course you need your computer.
    You need a CDR to write your own CDs. (Whatever came with your computer is fine.)
    You need a Turntable or cassette deck depending on what you want to copy.
    You need a Mixer with a RIAA Phono Preamp built in like I have on the turntable page. Click to see the LP to CD Mixer.
    You need a cable to connect the mixer to the line input on your computer. I've included one free with my mixer/turntable.

    OK, now let's get started with the LP to CD Tutorial.


    HERE'S THE MAIN SCREEN ON YOUR DESKTOP.
    Above you can see the main screen. I wanted you to see just how neat it looks and all you can do. Right now I'm playing a .WAV I made from an old Limeliter Album. You can see at the upper left the File, Edit, View, Options and Help menus. We'll get to those in a few minutes. To the right, you see the songs that I have put into my playlist. That's the songs that I am currently listening to and that I can then make into a CD when I choose to burn one.

    Just below the name of what's playing to the left are the familiar buttons just like on a CD player to play your music on your computer. You will really enjoy having your music with you at your computer. Of course it can play in the background while you surf and read reviews on the DAK website. : )
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    Just below the buttons, you see another list of buttons. Currently I have “MY LIBRARY” selected so that you see all the tracks in your library. This really makes it easy to keep track of your music on your computer and to create ‘playlists' to make CDs with. In fact it's so easy, you'll probably create different CDs all the time. One for a trip to Maui :), one for a long drive cross country and others for your daily commute. At just about $0.15 each, why not make lots of them?

    There's more, but I really want to get you up and running fast converting your own LPs to CDs.

    OK, here we go.


    Step One. The LP to CD Options Menu

    Here's the first step. This is the options menu and I want to copy an LP to a CD fast, so were going to ignore anything we don't need. So, Click options and then mouse down to Recorder, then over to Source and finally we're going to select line In. As you can see, we could have chosen either of my CD ROMs or a Mike or the system mixer.
    But today we are copying an LP that we're playing on the turntable, then using the mixer to connect to the sound card and that's all we need. One note here. Look back at
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    the Options menu and then over to the first drop down menu. Do you see just above source that we used, the word Format? Well that's where you could decide whether you want to record this music as an MP3 file or as a WAV file. The MP3 file will use just about 6 megabytes per minute. That's why you get up to 10 hours on an MP3 CD.

    The WAV file is what we call Redbook audio and it's the format that you have on regular CDs. It takes up about 60 megabytes per minute. So, you can decide here which format to use.
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    Here's what I recommend. For the most part you can't hear the difference. So, why don't you record a few really great sounding tracks two times? Record each track using each format. Then carefully play them back and decide which format you want to record in.

    It's just that easy. The big difference is in the space required. It's about 10 times more space if you're using regular WAV files. There's no answer, it really is up to you.

    OH, one more thing. Do you see Settings at the bottom of the menu? You'll see settings on most of the menus. Click it now and scroll down.


    The Settings Menu
    Here we are in settings. There are lots of tabs to choose from but we really only need Recorder today. As I said above, you could have selected MP3 or WAV from the drop down menu, but I wanted to show you the Settings Menu, so here we are.
    All you need to do here is select MP3 or WAV from the pull down menu. Isn't that easy? You can also choose the quality of the recording, but leave it at CD quality for today. The rest is really to fit more files onto the portable MP3 players that use memory chips.
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    Since they are quite small, you can only get an hour or two of music on them. It's not like MP3 CDs or the big hard drive jukeboxes. And while I don't think you'll hear the difference between MP3 and WAV, you will definitely here the difference when you start reducing the quality. But give it at try.

    You can see that Line In is selected at the arrow at the bottom left. We did that already with the pull down options menu.
    OK, now click the ADVANCED tab at the upper right of the Menu.


    The Advanced LP To CD Tab.

    Here you can do some neat things. You can have your tracks fade in and fade out and more. But all you really need to do here is to decide if you want to use Auto Song Detect. What's Auto Song Detect? OK here's the deal.
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    When you copy analog sources like a record or a cassette, your computer doesn't know where one song, track or movement ends and another begins. So, an entire side of an LP would be viewed as one long track. And that's OK if you want to listen to the whole thing. It works fine. But what if you want to hear track 3, or just the 3rd movement. Or, what if you turn it off and want to get back to where you were. Well, no way. You listen from start to finish or not at all.

    So, you have to manually break up your LPs into their individual tracks. It's helpful to think of each track as being a separate LP that you've decided to put together. So when you think about it the fact that they are together on a record is just somebody's choice, there's really no tie.
    The same goes for the order of the songs. You can change them now while you make your CDs. Leave off ones you don't like, change the order by simply dragging and dropping (I'll show you) and more.

    OK, so what do you do? Well you have two choices.

    LP to CD Choice one. Click the box and turn on Auto Song Detect. What does it do? Simple. The fist box ‘Gap Length' let's you say how much silence your computer should look for before it automatically decides to arbitrarily create an end to one track and the beginning of another.
    This is really neat. You'll see it in action when you're recording. The number in this box represents milliseconds. And 2000 equals 2 seconds. More or less a record track gap runs about 3-4 seconds. But yours will probably vary. Somewhere between 1.5 and 3 seconds is about right.
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    The second box is Gap Level. This refers to the amount of sound power between tracks. You might think it would be zero, but, it's not. There's record noise on LPs and hiss on cassettes and more. So, about 10% is average.

    But there's a problem with Auto Song Detect. Depending on your records, it
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    might not work very well. It works fine on many LPs, but if there's talking or very soft music at the beginning or end of a track, it can create 2, 3 or even 4 tracks containing virtually nothing between songs. This wouldn't be a big problem because you can just delete them.
    But if some of them contain a few quiet notes then you have a problem because you've got notes unconnected to the song in which they appear. And you're likely to have a few seconds of silence between these notes and your song because whenever a track is put in it adds a fixed amount of silence just like a commercial record or CD.
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    So try it out and play with the Gap Level. It's the biggest problem. Either you get too many tracks or your songs can end up with no breaks for tracks at all. And experiment in both directions because the number you put in I find to be counterintuitive to what I was thinking. But move it up to 11 or 12% or down to 9 or 8% and see how you do.

    LP To CD Option 2. Do it yourself.

    This is really easy, and it's the way I've made most of my digital copies. Here's all you do. Either using headphones connected to your mixer, or using the speakers connected to your computer, simply start your LP and click record on the computer. It's just like making a cassette.

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    When you hear the track end, click stop. That's it. You're done. I mean you do have to sit there at your computer, but it's really not so bad, and you wouldn't be recording the music if you didn't love it. A side of a record usually has 6 or 7 tracks, so that's all you do. Do it once and you've got it for life.

    OK, that was the only hard part. Let's get going. Honestly, it's all really easy to convert an LP to CD once you get started.


    A Side Trip Tour Of A Click & Pop Filter.
    Or, what to do after you record, but before you cut your CDs

    Clicks & Pops can really ruin your musical enjoyment of your old LPs and 45s. But the good news is that Click & Pop filters really will knock your socks off with the incredible audio restoration they perform on your treasured music.

    This new technology is worth reading about. So, I've put a little detour in here to tell you about how to choose one to fit your needs.

    And yes, we're giving away a Free Click, Pop and His filter with our Mixer and/or Turntable LP to CDR Perfection System, but this is information you really want to know about when you copy your LPs to CDs. So, enjoy the detour into the new automated do it for you instantly Click & Pop filters available for you to use today.


    Here's a sample Click & Pop filter opening screen. All you want to do is get your WAV files (standard audio) into the program. Why only WAV files? MP3 files are compressed, so most editors can't deal with them. That's why almost everything you do when you're editing is with WAV files (also known as Red Book Audio or standard CD Format). Then, you can convert them to MP3 or anything you like. You just have to do any editing you want to do in WAV files.

    Anyway, once you've got your music files selected you just want to decide what you want to do and then let your click and pop filter do its thing. Let's eliminate some clicks and pops.

    Here's the option screen of the DAK free program. Any click and pop filter should have some or even most of these abilities. The neat thing about this one it's totally automatic. Just click what you want to do and it does it. If you do choose to click any of the setup buttons, a screen for each will pop up that lets you configure the restoration filter any way you want. Just be sure that you have options like this when you choose a click and pop filter. You can get any click and pop filter you want. The important thing is to get one.

    What do you want to do to restore your LPs, 45s and cassettes? Here I explain why you might want to use each audio restoration option.

    1. Minimize Big Clicks- This is for scratches and major clicks. You can probably see on the record itself the scratches, and clicks you want to remove.
    2. Minimize Small Pops- Here you can eliminate the small clicks and pops that you probably have hundreds of on each LP. This is very different than big clicks and is probably the most important part of restoration. It's the almost continuos clicks and pops that really tend to drive me crazy and I'll bet the bug the #%*#% out of you too.
    3. Filter Frequencies- Remove low frequencies (typically rumble and pulley noise) or high frequencies (typically noise from older vinyl records) from your LPs.
    4. Minimize Noise- Get tape hiss and other continuous noises. It's called a "noise floor" the hiss you hear in areas of the sound that should be silent.
    5. Normalize Frequency- Make all your tracks have the same bass and treble balance. Different tracks from different LPs or tapes can large tone differences, which can be very distracting. Now you can eliminate them.
    6. Normalize Volume- This Feature is important. If you copy tracks from different LPs and put them on a single CD, sometimes the volume will be different from track to track. This Audio Restoration tool will analyze then normalize all the tracks so you won't be fiddling with your volume control as you listen to your CDs in the car.

    Oh, yes. Don't forget Preview- Any program should allow you to preview what you're doing before you do it. A preview is a very useful tool.

    And one more very important point. Be sure that the program you buy creates a NEW file like yoursong_NEW.wav for each track that you restore. You don't want to lose your originals. This is a point worth asking about BEFORE you buy.

    Check out my product review if you want more in-depth detailed info. This section is just to show you what to look for when you get your own Click & Pop Filter. Click to visit my in-depth Click & Pop Filter Review.

    Want to see what a click, pop and a scratch look like? Chances are you already know what they sound like.

    What does a click or pop actually look like? Most times you really don't need to know because the new automated programs do everything for you. In fact, the DAK program doesn't even show graphs because it does it all for you automatically. But here I've used the editor that came with my Sound Blaster Sound card to show you just what clicks and pops really do look like.
    Hear Before & After


    A good click and pop filter looks at each component of your music and removes ONLY unwanted nonmusical clicks, pops and scratches. You can see in the picture above, that the clicks look like straight lines.

    Music has a more angled attack. What you can't see and what's most important are the clicks and pops that stay within the sound wave that a click and pop filter removes. It's amazing how well these filters remove the annoying to terrible clicks and pops that really can ruin our music. The Demo above is actually take from the track you see. It's from the Limeliters Folk Group. They are my favorite folk music group and we see them as often as we can. Check out www.limeliters.com if you're into folk music.


    Here's another short example that's really
    Hear Before & After
    clear about what a click and pop filter can do. This sample is from the middle of a Limeliter song, so there's not the tiny clicks and pops you often get near the beginning of an LP from all the needle drops that occur with constant record usage

    Anyway, this track had a nice clean scratch that just ruined the sound. Now it's gone. You don't have to go find a part of the record to work on. With a click and pop filter, you just 'process' the file. It's all automatic. I just selected this part to show you and let you listen to the before and after effects of a click and pop filter.

    OK, here are 2 of the 6 Click and Pop filter option screens to show you how you can configure things yourself. Most good programs allow you to change the presets.

    For the most part, you'll never touch these controls on any click and pop filter because the defaults really work well. But, what if you want less sensitivity or more? What if you don't want to compensate for high frequency loss? Well you should be able to control exactly what you want to do.

    And when you use the preview button, you'll hear exactly what you're removing and what your not. Finally with this program (and others) there's what they call an Extra Precision option.

    Why not always use this type of feature. Actually that's a really good question and I don't have an 'acceptable' answer. The reason not to use it is that it slows down the restoration process. With this feature engaged, it takes about 50 seconds to fully process a 3 minute long track from your LP using an average 1GHz computer.

    But since you're only processing once and you're going to listen to it forever I can't imagine anyone being to impatient to do it the best way possible. And from my tests, the Extra Precision settings do such an incredible job, I always just leave them on.

    So bottom line, Click & Pop filters take the helpless feeling away I get when clicks and pops ruin my enjoyment of my treasured LPs, 45s and cassettes. Now that I've used click and pop filters for some time, I'm really glad I lived long enough for them to get so good.

    The difference isn't subtle. It isn't small. You will be blown away by how well they can restore your music to its original splendor. Try one out yourself. Of course, I'd be thrilled if you tried DAK's Click, Pop & Hiss Assassin, but that's up to you.

    If you want to read more, check out my extensive review of our Click and Pop Filter and what it can do for you, CLICK HERE.


    OK, Back To The Main Tutorial


    Your Computer. Turn it on.
    Here's the tray at the bottom right of your monitor. Just Double Click the speaker Icon.

    Your Windows Mixer.

    Did you know you had this? Well no problem. All you need to do is make sure that the 'Line In' slider is up about where I have it, and that it isn't muted. I think it comes muted by default. If you don't unmute it you won't hear your source material coming in from your LPs through your sound card. After you have the LP playing, you can adjust your volume here. Of course I recommend you control it at the mixer because it's easier and every LP, cassette or other source will be different.

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    IMPORTANT LP TO CD Note: What if you don't have a line in? Just click the properties button at the top left, then click Record and add the Line In AND BE SURE IT IS SELECTED, or any other inputs that you want. Then they will show up when you double click the Windows Mixer. You see, you're learning all sorts of things in the Vinyl to CD tutorial.

    Onward.

    Let's make a recording.


    Main Screen For Recording
    Here's the main screen again. Remember we saw this at the beginning. Now I want you to click the record button by Opening The RECORDER In The View Menu. Don't worry, we're just bringing up the recorder. You're not making a recording yet. You may have to click it more than once to get the recorder up. That seems to vary.


    The LP To CD Recording Screen.

    So now the recording interface has popped up. See it says Recorder? It may not be instantly obvious, but you can click on each of the areas where I put the red arrows so you can type in the name of your artist, album and song. A Note. At least add the Artist and Album. If you don't all the tracks you record will be stored in one big list. By making each artist or album different, you'll find your housekeeping immeasurably easier.

    See next picture.


    The Recording Screen Filled in.
    See how I've listed the Artist, Album and Track one? This is easy and worth the effort. By the way, this is a great album by Glen Yarbrough. He's one of the original Limeliters, my favorite group. If you get a chance, go hear them or at least get a CD or some LPs. They are the best of the best when it comes to Folk Music.
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    OK HAVE YOU DONE ALL THAT? Well, Gentlemen Start Your Engines. We're ready. So, Start your Turntable, Set the Mixer and Lay the needle in the track. Done, then click Record. Wow, we're making our first digital copy. Enjoy.



    The Recorder Time Screen.
    Are you using the Auto Song Detect? As your recording is progressing, you can see if it's working. Just look at the screen and if you have track lengths of 1-4 minutes, everything is great. If you see track lengths of 1- 6 seconds, you might as well stop and delete the tracks.
    Just reset the auto song detect time or per cent and get started again. It's really easy and you can see if it works on the particular LP or not. If not, just switch to the manual mode I've already described. It's easy either way.
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    And Guess what. When you're done with this you're going to be able to make your CDs using any, some or all of the tracks you've recorded. Essentially you're done. You see, it really was easy.

    Now let's make a CD.


    Finding Your Tracks
    Making EITHER Or BOTH MP3 & Wave (Standard Audio) CDs.
    This is easy. But, in the latest version of Musicmatch, they unchecked a few of the default Check Boxes so I started getting phone calls. You're still just one click away from creating either or both MP3 and Wave CDs, you just have to make sure that the options are turned on.

    So, Look right under the Playlist and Click on the Burn Button. Don't worry, this won't actually do anything, it will just bring up the Burn Screen. And that's where we will turn on the options for you.

    Setting your Standard Wave Audio CD Options
    Here's the dialog box you get when you click settings. All you need to do is go to the Audio Tab and make sure that ALL the boxes are checked. Once you've done that you can record from MP3, WAV or Windows Media to MP3 or Wave. Which is all you want to do. After you turn these options on, you'll never have to come back here again.

    Setting Your MP3 Options
    And if this looks familiar, it should. You just click on the MP3 Tab at the top and TURN ON all of the options. If you don't, whenever you use the 1 click Change Type option on the Disc Menu, it just drops out all your tracks that don't match the type you want. Its' really frustrating and you won't know why the easy instructions we gave you didn't work. Now you do.

    OK, that's it. Now it's just Options/Disc/Change Type any time you want to change the CDs you make from standard audio Wave to MP3 or back.


    So Where Is Musicmatch Hiding My Tracks? Where Are They?
    So where are your tracks? Easy. Go to the Options/Settings/Recorder on the main Musicmatch program. Then you'll be here on the Recorder Tab.

    Before We go find your tracks I want to remind you of 2 things. This is the tab where you come to select .Wav (standard audio) so that you'll burn the CDs that will play in your car, home and everywhere, or MP3 as shown now if you want to keep the files electronic and listen with a portable MP3 player or just keep them all on your computer.

    Note: To use the click and pop filter you need to use the .WAV setting because that's what all editing systems use.

    OK the Recording Source at the bottom left needs to be set to LINE IN if you're going to copy LPs and cassettes. Just set these up once and you can leave them.

    OK Now For finding your tracks.

    So, Look to the top right and I've aimed my arrow at the Tracks Directory Button. Click it.


    Track Directory - Here's Where Your Tracks Are

    Just look in the highlighted box where I've put the left facing arrow. This is where Musicmatch has decided to store your tracks. Usually it's in your My Music Folder EITHER in My Documents (Win98) or "Your Name Settings/My Music" In Windows XP. (Actually that's really My Documents in Windows XP too, but if you navigate from your desktop, just look for your name then "My Music".

    Anyway, now you know where your music is stored. And it's fine there if it's OK with you. But you can also save it to a folder of your choice by clicking the "...." Button I've marked with my Right Facing Arrow. Let's Look

    So this Browse Folder Box is part of your Windows System. And all you have to do is navigate to any folder you want to use to store your tracks. You can name it after an artist, or one for all your LPs or anything you want. You don't have to store all your tracks in one folder called 'my Music' if you don't want to. Oh, and you have to create any folders you want to use before you enter this screen. So create them first, then just navigate to them. And they can be anywhere on your computer that's good for you.

    And that's really all you need to know about finding your tracks and where they are stored. Now, let's see how to use the Click, Pop & Hiss filter to find and restore your tracks. It's easy.


    Time To Restore Your Tracks. But Where Are They And Where Should You Put Them?
    So with the click & pop filter you have two things you want to figure out. 1) Where are the tracks you've recorded so you can restore them and 2) where do you want to put the Fixed Tracks when you're finished? And it's all easy. So, let's take a look.

    Finding them is easy now that you know where Musicmatch, or for that matter the DAK MP3 & Wave Recorder & Editor puts them.

    Important Tip. Here's a trick you can use to find your tracks if you really don't know where they are.

    Go to your Windows Start Menu. Choose the Find or Search Button. Then type in the file name section, the name you've given to one of your files. Is it Limeliters, Sinatra or some other name? Whatever it is, just type it in. Then when the file (track) is found, you can see the path in the window so you can navigate there with the Click & Pop Filter's Browse Button.

    OK, now onto Where Do You Want To Put The RESTORED Tracks?

    First, Click on the little Record Icon at the top left of your Click & Pop Filter's Opening Screen As shown Above and select 'Advanced Options'.


    OK, we're going to cover 2 big ideas here.

    First, a concept. When you restore your tracks, the Click & Pop filter by default, makes a new copy of your file and adds the suffix _NEW to the new copy. This is fine and very logical. This way, you can be sure you will like the new restored version better than the original. And that makes sense.

    BUT, I've recently come to a new conclusion. Since 99% of all the tracks you restore are perfect the first time, I've changed from the default to a new way of saving.

    Here's what I've done. I've deleted the _NEW from the new file box and added _OLD to the Old File Name. This way, the tracks I'm keeping have only my original name without the suffix _NEW. I like this better.

    And Issue Two. Where do you want to store the Restored Tracks? By default, the fixed tracks are stored in the same folder as the old (original) tracks. This isn't a problem because you can separate them using the Created Date and all the old will be separated from all the new.

    But, Why not just send them all to a new folder? It's easy. You see my two arrows at the very bottom? Well in your Click & Pop Filter this box is empty because if it's empty, then all the files you create go right into the same folder as the original.

    But, if you type or (Right hand Arrow) Click the (B) Button, you can send the tracks anywhere you like. Just select a folder and that's where the tracks will be sent. This is regardless of whether you use the _OLD or _NEW suffix I mentioned above.


     
    Here's Where to Send Your Tracks
    OK, it's just like we did in Musicmatch. This is your Windows Browse Dialog Box. Just Click on the folder where you want to send your tracks. Click OK, and that's where they'll be from now on. Unless you want to move them.

    How Do I get New Tracks Or More Tracks Into Musicmatch?
    So you've got tracks recorded somewhere else, or you've restored tracks and now you want to burn your CDs. Well you have to put them into Musicmatch. And even if the tracks were there BEFORE you restored them, you really should tell Musicmatch where they are now. And that's really easy. Of course it's easy if you know how.

    Do you see that little Plus Sign Hiding to the right of your 'My Library'?

    Well Click It now.


    Lots of options. To Add Tracks And More.
    Look down to where my arrows are. We're just going to use the 'Add Tracks' now. But do look around. The neat thing about this program is that it can do so much for you. The only problem is you might not ever know some of the neatest things that can be done.

    Anyway, Click the 'Add Tracks'.


    Here's how you add tracks. Just Click On Any Folder that has the tracks you want to add. (Arrow on the Left) Then all the tracks will show up in the box to the right.

    Here's where it gets fun. You can use the 'Select All' button to grab them all. You can click on one if you want one track. Or if you hold down the Control Key on your keyboard and then click with your mouse (as I've done here) on any number of tracks you want to add, you can select a few or a lot of the tracks easily and instant.

    That's it. Now you know how to add tracks to Musicmatch so you can burn them onto CDs or just listen to them. It's fast. It's easy. And you're in complete Control.


    OK, Back to Burning Your CDs Using Musicmatch.

    Choosing the Tracks to make a CD Screen.
    This is just like playing the songs on your computer. Just select the songs you want on your CD from the ‘My Library.' You can either double click them, you can highlight them all or groups. Anyway all you have to do is get them into the playlist at the top right.
    As you can see I've just double clicked ‘'On Jerry's Rock'. IMPORTANT This is how you make playlists for your CDs. Just select the songs you want for any CD. It's easy. It's fast and you can change your mind any time you want. You see it in the track playing to the left and the playlist box to the right. When you've got all the songs you want to record in your playlist, click the Burn Button just under the playlist on the right. And you'll get the Burn Screen.

    Note: Oh, and at the bottom, please be sure to rate my LPs To CDs & Vinyl To CD - The Software Tutorial. Please)

    BURN IT NOW
    After you've hit Burn, you'll get this screen showing all the tracks that you have in your playlist. And here's where it gets even more fun. You can uncheck any tracks that you now decide after looking at your creation that you don't want.
    You'll only be burning the checked tracks. Plus, you can drag any titles to change the order. So, drag them up, drag them down, you can make them appear in any order you want. OK, there's just one more thing to do. Scroll down to the next screen.



    MP3s or WAV Standard Audio
    Remember when you decided whether or not you were going to record MP3 or WAV files? Well, now you get to decide again. And this is really neat. Maybe you want to have both regular CDs and MP3 CDs. It's up to you.
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    A New Window Will Open.
    Either way, you can now decide how creation is to be. Click options, scroll down to Disc, over to Change type and then click on MP3 disc, or Audio Disc. That's it. Now you're ready to Go. Oh by the way, look just to the left of the options menu where I've pulled it down.
    Do you see the little music button and MP3 button, just about covered by the menu? Well you could have just clicked one of them to decide between MP3 or regular, but I wanted you to see the actual menus to really make it clear.


    The Burning Screen.
    While your CD is being created, you'll see the progress on the burn screen. Here you can see the Track, Artist and Album as it's being burned.

    Finished Burning Screen
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    I wanted you to see this screen because it's really useful. I usually make 2 or 3 copies of everything I do. As I said before, it's cheap, it's easy and I like to have my music in lots of places. Also, once I make a couple of backup CDRs, I feel more comfortable about erasing the files from my computer.
    I can always reload the backup CDs if I want. My newest computer has 2 60 gigabyte drives, so space isn't a problem. But in the past my drives weren't so big and space was a factor. So depending on your own drives, copy and delete. It's up to you and your particular circumstances. Now all there is to do is take your CD out and start enjoying all your music wherever you are from now on.

    Why not take another look at my Mixer, Turntable and cables? You're very close to creating, protecting and persevering a whole generation of your favorite music. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine.


    One More Thing
    MusicMatch and in fact most of the recording programs you can use have tons more great features that you will love to use. Here's the popup equalizer that you can use to sculpture your sound to make it come alive.
    Spend some time and you'll find that there are included enhancements that really do dramatically improve the sound, the usability and well, the enjoyment you'll experience as you convert your treasured LPs into CDRs. You can visit MusicMatch by Clicking here. And I haven't even gotten into the ability of this system to match your albums and name all your tracks.
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    It's fast, it's free and it's amazing how neat this can all be. Plus there's a built in print utility that will print out all your tracks for each CD you make. I could go on, but this tutorial was just about getting your LPs and Cassettes converted to CDRs. And now you're fully ready to go. Enjoy.

    A few last things that I want to mention.
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    Here's one more tip. I always make two copies of all my CDs. Since I have 12 CDs in my car and since it gets really hot when I drive in the desert I don't want to take any chances.
    I think it's always a good idea. Need I remind you at this point that it's illegal, immoral and fattening to share your musical treasures with others? Don't make copies for friends. Don't sell them. And well, don't cheat. It's easy to forget that our old treasured albums are still under copyright. But chances are that they are still protected.
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    So why not head for the beach, the park or the hills and sit down and listen to your great sounding music. And whether you're listening to standard audio CDs or the new MP3 CDs with up to 10 hours per disc, you've just given yourself a lifetime gift that you'll enjoy for many, many years to come.

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    Still have questions? Did I miss something in my LPs To CDs & Vinyl To CD - The Software Tutorial (probably)? I'll add it if you write to me.

    Enjoy. . . Drew


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